Monday, July 1, 2013

How to Stitch Chudidar ( Leggings)


Today I am showing you the simple & Easy method of cutting, drafting and sewing leggings or Chudidar. Instructions are simple and for your ease I have prepared a very small sample for this because my point and shot camera is able to cover the whole piece of leggings but unable to show stitches , which are necessary for understanding , with this small sample it will be easy for you to understand.
Basic measurements required for the leggings /chudidar are:
1 complete length of leggings, from waist to toe.
2 leg’s width at toe.
3. Number of gathering or chudis you want in your leggings, for this extra 10-12” length is required.
4. length from you toe to knee( for example if it is 15” + 1” for folding + 12” for gathering it will be 28” (in the picture of draft it is shown  as =  I to J and F to G  )
5. Belt’s width and length( including folding from top for elastic and stitching at bottom part)
6. length from knee to the ending part of belt.( this is G  to H and J to K  in draft).
Instructions :
Things to do before drafting and sewing bag for chudidar or leggings.
Take 2 metres cloth.
      Open it length wise.
      Measure your belt( including 2” for top folding), cut this part of cloth and keep it aside for further use.
     With the remaining long piece bag is to be prepared or stitched before drafting.
    Take the whole length and fold.
Stitch the top fold (  picture below   )

      Stitch the bottom fold( in the same picture, two stitches  )
    Now open it as shown in picture (picture below)   

    Place your finger to the   side of cloth and stretch it towards right side, 


   From b-c stitch part.(shown in picture)

   Bag is complete , quite easy , isn’t it.

Drafting part:

Place bag as shown in Picture  
At this stage you can iron it too for ease.
Drafting Instructions:
Please refer to the drafting image: ( for example on Left hand side)


C to E and F to G is the measurement of toe to knee.( add 1” for bottom folding and ½” for sides if you are adding hooks.)
F G H is a curve line from your knee to the ending point of belt.

        
Sewing Instructions:
Complete belt according to your measurements. Fold the upper part, stitch it from sides, if elastic has to be attached , attach it at this stage or after completing it.
     Take one part of leg, fold the bottom most part of toe. If hooks are to be attached on sides fold -6”length wise from both sides for attaching hooks
     Do the same with other leg part.
      Attach both leg parts with belt , adjust extra part of cloth in form of gathering.
    Finally stitch from   part  FGH  and KJI to complete your leggings.
      For detailed instructions in sewing  you may refer to my earlier post how tostitch salwar(bottom) it will be helpful to you.
Notes:
If you are taking printed cloth for leggings and it print is in particular direction say top to bottom, don’t use this bag method for sewing leggings because in this case print in one leg will be in particular direction and in other leg it will be in different direction, this will look awkward and funny too.
I hope this tutorial will be helpful to you, if any doubt please feel free to ask via comment section.  Please share my posts too.

Saturday, June 8, 2013

Traingle Pattern : Tutorial on Sindhi Stitch

Sindhi stitch looks very beautiful, though it follows a series of geometrical patterns but after filling it gets a beautiful embroidery look. It is also know as kutch work or kutch embroidery. Traditionally sindhi women do this without any tracing, it looks difficult but once you are familiar with the steps it is easy to do it without any trace of design, now a days for an ease traces are available in some embroidery books. For your ease I have also prepared some sindhi stitch sketches for this particular traingle pattern, with their help you will easily understand the pattern and its 4 different stages and by following them step by step after 3-4 attempts(if it is new to you) you will be able to make the same pattern.


Before proceding further I will suggest you to take a look at my previous post on sindhi stitches especially
Sindhi stitch guide,
Borders
Borders II,
sindhi stitch border on kurta
all these patterns will be helpful to you to understand this much better.
This pattern is slightly complex, I have to spend time in learning this, if you carefully see this is an extension of my post on border on sindhi stitch in kurta.
This traingle can be usde as a border to by attaching one by one, I will show its illustration in my upcoming post, hence this is a tutorial I am showing you a single segment you can use this at various embroidery projects according to your need. This pattern comprise of 4 stages:
Step -1 lowest row of traingle


Step-2 upper part of traingle

step-3 filling of traingle


step-4 filling of lowest row of traingle.

 This pattern moves from left to right(step-1)
Right to left(step-2)
left to right(step-3)
right to left(step-4)

I have written in my first post each &  every pattern ends at the point from where it had began. Starting point and ending point both are same in sindhi embroidery.

If you have any queries please feel free to write me in comment section. If you like this post please like it on face book too.