How to Stitch Gown

Gown: Stitching gown is easy even if you are new to sewing, you can easily stitch a gown for yourself. For full length gown of the given measurements for this example you need only 2 metres of cloth and 1 strip of additional cloth approx 3" wide as I have use black strip in this gown as shown in the Pic.
Instructions for cutting:

Take full length of cloth, Place a mark at 9" and cut it. This 9" strip will be used for front and back yoke and sleeves. Before proceeding further let's take a look at the measurements which I have used for stitching this gown, you have to change according to your's.(you may also need extra cloth depending upon the measurements)
Shoulder width-13 and 1/2" (all these measurements are after stitching you have to add 1/2" extra for cutting.
yoke lenght-7 and 1/2"
yoke width- 15"
sleevees length- 6"
sleeves width- 18"
gown width(ghera)- 31"
gown length- 52"
gown length after yoke- 44 and 1/2" ( 44 and 1/2" + 7 and 1/2" = 52")
Drafting:

For sleeves cutting method please refer to my earilier post how to stitch kurta ( salwar top)
Stitching Instructions:
First join the shoulder parts
prepare neck and front button area with the help of picture.
Add aditional stripe to the front and back part of the yoke.
Add the bottom part of gown adjust the pleats.
Finally add sleeves adjusting the pleats.
Make the border of the sleeves
stitch bottom part of the gown from both sides that's it.
Last complete the sleeves  this is important as shown in drafting we have to make cutting of sleeve in the bottom part of the gown (sleeves cutting falls after the yoke, if you don.t add yoke and bottom part together you will not be able to attach sleeves)

Any queries or suggestions please feel free to ask via comment section.

SALWAR KAMEEZ PATTERN-4

This is one of my favorite kurta decorated with floral lace pattern. 

Lace is used in sleeves ,U shaped neck and front bottom. 

The back side of the neck is covered with wide lace on two sides and one side is covered with floral lace this give it a unique pattern. Thin strips of the same cloth are attached to form a design. 

One thing I want to explain you that first you should stitch the whole kurta and complete the sleeves like you normally stitch and then attach the floral lace. If you find problem in adjusting the lace on the curve of neck. Please first attach it with hand and then machine stitch it.

Adjust the length of  bottom side of kurta according to lace, as floral lace is attached only on the front side of the kurta. Back side is plain. There is slight difference in length of front and back side.

For cutting and stitching instructions please refer to my earlier post how to stitch kurta

KURTI PATTERN- 2

In this kurti I have used a cloth material that was especially meant for kurti.

 With the help of matching cloth a square patch is being attached to it. Making thin pleats on the cloth  makes a pleated stuff for the patch. Outline of the patch has been made with wide matching sequin border. Again matching  thin lace has been attached to the neckline till the center of the patch to complete the design. Thin lace is also stitched on sleeves.

 One thing i want to suggest that if you have purchased a cloth that has a border or different color lines or pattern in bottom and while stitching you want to have it in your cloth. Take a strip of cloth attach to it and fold it with hot iron. this will press the cloth give the perfect finishing finally complete it with stitching. Thus you can retain the border or design As this is self explaintory in this picture.

If you are new to this post please refer to earlier post how to stitch kurta

SALWAR KAMEEZ PATTERN-3

This is another suit designed by me. Fabric is of cotton with beautiful embroidered kairi motifs. Salwar(bottom) is of golden color.

Neck is V shaped with golden border is attached to it. Taken from the fabric of kurta two kairi motifs have been attached to the net sleeves, back side of kurta a cloth from salwar has been attached, round neck has been decorated with golden sequins again a kairi has been attached on back, on the joining point thin golden lace has been attached the pattern gives this kurta a readymade look.

Golden dupatta is also decorated with same motifs. The seller had informed me that the fabric of kurta is of pure cotton. it can be dyed to any darker shade in future without spoiling the work and shine of motif.

If you are creative you can design your clothes yourself with less effort

KURTI PATTERN

This is a simple kurti with full sleeves. Multi colored  matching border has been attached on sleeves, at the bottom of front panel and neck deisign. For cutting and stitching instructions please go through my previous post on kurta making. Pictures are self explanatory.

HOW TO MAKE CORD OR DORI

Today I am showing you the 2 neck patterns.
Neck Pattern 1.
the first neck pattern is a front neck pattern in which double pink and white cord or dori has

been used, after adding piping to the neckline, cord is folded and added.
Neck Pattern 2

In this pattern red and yellow color strpes of cloth are added in a matt form, each stripe is
decorated with golden thread, gives the whole pattern a  embroidery look, after adding
border of red color to the round shape line, cord has been added to tie.
 In Both patterns one thing is common is the use of Cord or dori. In first neck pattern the
pattern itself is made from dori while in second pattern dori is attached , the process of
making dori in both patterns is same let me explain.

How to make Cord or Dori

For making dori you need 2 needles One big size and second (Picuture No.1)as small as it
can pass through the 1 one.
1- According to the length of cord take 1'' wide cloth and sew near to fold Picuture No.2
2- On the one edge to cloth place long needle(from back side) in between the cord(Picuture
No.3)
3- With the Help of small neddle stitch cloth with big needle, it shold be tight, while streching
the joint should not be broken.(Picuture No.4) as per picture no.4 whole length of cloth
should be kept on big needle, it is important otherwise you will not be able to stretch the dori.
4- Try to strech the needle(Picture No.5-7) from the cloth and enjoy the fun.
After making for 3-4 times you will be able to make doris of your choice.

HOW TO STITCH KURTA( SALWAR TOP)

Today I am showing you a simple process of cutting & stitching kurta, don't get yourself confused in tricky measurement of 1/2 or 1/4 of ---------. etc. Simply know the essential measurements that are required and try to start stitching your own kurta. Once you will go through it you will be able to understand measurements and their role in stitching. Further you can experiment on other's . Perfection comes with experience, the more you do, more you learn and you will be skilled. For sewing kurta, basic measurements that are required are:
shoulder width: from left to right shoulder.
length: from shoulder to the desired length
chest: around chest
waist: around waist
sleeve : length
sleeve: width

Points to be remember while marking on cloth:
Total Length: desired length + 1 & 1/2 " extra
chest: around chest+2" extra
waist: around waist+ 1-2 "extra
shoulder: add 1/2 " extra while marking shoulder

shoulder to arm hole length will be the exact width of sleeve
marking sleeve width+ 1.5'' extra
sleeve length will be as desired.
Stitching Instructions:
Opening the 4 fold layers of kurta you will get 2 pieces: front and back.
first of all stitch shoulders.
complete neck with piping or any other pattern, whatever you are making.
Attach sleeves(a-b part will be attached from front side of kurta and b -c will be attached on back part.(refer to the yellow diagram)
Attach e-f part for fitting
Finally fold f to g part and bottom.
I hope you will find this post helpful. If any query please type it on comments section.

HOW TO STITCH SALWAR(BOTTOM)

Sewing developed as a hobby of mine in 2010(not very old), I was inspired by my friend , perfect in sewing. I was not totally unknown to this art, but never tried to stitch my own dress, as their is a saying that "Necessity is the Mother of Invention" My tailor was always unable to understand my words, always there was something lacking in my dress.This is true reason for me to stitch a dress, and thus journey began. It gives you immense satisfaction that you are wearing a dress made by yourself. In this post I will show you step by step instructions to cut &   stitch salwar.
Usually when salwar is cut whole 2 metres cloth is folded in 4 layers and cut but I use a slight different method this cause "Ghera" or "Width"(width of leg) of salwar to maximum as per cloth.
 The measurements used in this tutorial are for example, you have to take your own measurements:
Basic Measurements Required:
1- Full length of salwar
2- Waist band length and width
3-Legbottom round width
When you measure add 1" extra for folding(for the upper folding of waist band add 2 1/2" extra , Please refer to figure NO. 8.

Method:

• If full length is 41" take 34" of cloth. with the help of figure No. 1 cut the pieces.
• Take rest of cloth(for 2 metres piece for salwar not the whole piece of cloth for suit, I hope you will understand) fold it with the help of figure No. 2 cut the cloth.
• Stitch the pieces with the help of figure No. 3 and    4, 2 parts for both legs will the ready
• Place "Baqram" in the leg bottom round   with desired stitches prepare "Paicha".  or "Mohri" of both legs. Please refer to figure No. 5.
• Take one leg part fold it from the back side(wrong side) as per instructions in figure No. 6 stitch first and then cut (both layers are to the stitched and cut.)
• Cut the "e" part as per figure No 7, and with the help of figure NO 8. attache all the parts and finally Salwar will look like as shown in figure NO.8.
  

While sewing salwar it will be beneficial to you that first take your best fitted Salwar and note down all measurements, this will help you proceed further.

      I hope that this post of mine will be beneficial to all those who want to stitch their own salwar. Please feel free to write down any comments , suggestions or queries. My next upcoming post will be "How to Stitch Salwar(TOP),  with few patterns of salwar kameez stitched by me. Please stay updated through e-mail subscription.